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The dispersion relation equation is used to directly compute wave number and wave length to compliment water wave pressure sensor readings. Waves are measured to help coastal engineering to better mitigate coastal infrastructures. Various given wave periods and water depths are used to show how the dispersion relation equation could compute wave length. Also, shallow and deep-water approximations are formulated from the dispersion relation equation and the results are compared.

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Arcadii Grinshpan, Mathematics and Statistics

Ping Wang, School of Geosciences

Problem Suggested By:

Ping Wang