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Author Biography

Érika Wicky currently holds a junior professor's chair in the history of olfaction at the University Grenoble Alpes / LARHRA (France). She holds a Ph.D. in Art History (2011; University of Montréal, Canada). Her dissertation was published under the title Les Paradoxes du détail: Voir, savoir, représenter à l'ère de la photographie (Presses universitaires de Rennes, 2015). She has carried out postdoctoral research in Canada (FQRSC/Figura, 2011-2014), Belgium (FNRS, 2015-2018) and Italy (EUI, 2021-2022 ; Bibliotheca Hertziana, 2022-2023). During two European fellowships in France (EURIAS, 2018-2019 and Marie Sklodowska-Curie IF, 2019-2021), she studied the history of olfactory culture (18th-20th centuries), a topic on which she has published widely and co-organised several international conferences, including Mediality of Smells (University of Oxford, 2018), which resulted in an edited collection of the same name (2022), and the forthcoming The Perfumer: The Evolution of a Figure since the Renaissance, based on a conference at the Centre de recherche du Château de Versailles (2021). She is a member of the board of the Société d'études romantiques et dix-neuvièmistes and a member of the scientific committee of the Osmothèque, the world's perfume archive.

Abstract

As several historians, including Alain Corbin, have noted, a new sensitivity to odors emerged in the 18th century that increased people’s negative responses to strong smells and heightened the demand for fragrances that were not only pleasant but also light and subtle. Some scholars see this period as a true “olfactory revolution.” How was this expressed in the salon, perceived both as a luxurious space and a site of elite sociability? This focus on the smell of varnish aims to illustrate how the scent of materials intertwined with the pleasures of decorative arts, both in the entire space of the salon and in relation to the small objects handled within it. Since varnished objects and décor were simultaneously fashionable, highly desirable items and sources of olfactory nuisance, they present an intriguing case study to highlight the paradoxes and complexities of the olfactory culture of the period.

Keywords

smell, varnish, perfume, toxicity, paint, olfaction, decorative arts

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